ASYUT, Egypt — As the sun sets in the village of al-Nawawara, most men either head to a cafe or sit in front of their houses to smoke shisha. Women gather in groups to chat, while chewing on what they call “qatrouna,” better known in Egypt as “madgha” or "chewing tobacco."

Al-Nawawara, which is 150 kilometers (93 miles) south of Asyut and situated along the Nile, is a large village with red brick houses. Upon entering the village, a cafe where men smoke shisha and play dominos stands out.

At the house of Atiyat Nour, a 55-year-old housewife, two guests sit on a small carpet and sip tea, while Nour holds on to a small bag, with the words “duty-free tobacco” in Arabic written on it. She empties the content of the bag into a bowl and grinds it for 10 minutes, until it becomes soft and brown.

"We call this qatrouna, although the name differs depending on the region,” she told Al-Monitor. “It is a mix of tobacco leaves and tar sold in the small shops in the village. A package of 40 grams [1.4 ounces] costs only 1 Egyptian pound [$0.05]. Once you grind it well, it becomes soft and chewable.”