Despite strict alcohol regulations, taverna culture alive in Turkey
Despite increasing alcohol prices and draconian regulations for alcohol licenses, traditional and modern versions of meyhanes are flourishing, offering Turks a place to gather and share raki.
The moment you step out of Ataturk International Airport, you cannot help but wonder how Istanbulites keep calm in this chaos. One answer is centuries of meyhane tradition.
In any town that abuts the Mediterranean, you can see these rustic establishments. They serve "meze," small plates of seasonal fare to accompany local wines and liquors. Food is simple, fresh and in small portions to complement the drinks that inspire passionate conversation.
Istanbul is a city of meyhanes. Prominent travel writer Evliya Celebi has mentioned plenty of meyhanes around the Galata region, and there were over 1,000 in the city of Istanbul in the 1600s. Raki production is documented in Istanbul in the early 16th century.
Meyhanes have faced periods of bans, yet they have endured. Oddly, the sultans, who had a weakness for wine, are known for placing the cruelest restrictions.
