Skip to main content

The secret nightlife of Jerusalem’s old market

Ultra-Orthodox leaders are fighting to keep the old Jerusalem market of Mahane Yehuda from slipping further into a hot nightspot.

JERUSALEM, ISRAEL - FEBRUARY 27:  (ISRAEL OUT)  Israelis enjoy at Shuka bar in Mahane Yehuda open market on February 27, 2014 in Jerusalem, Israel. The Mahane Yehuda Market is over 100 years old. Often reffered to as "The Shuk", the market in the heart of Jerusalem is a popular attraction with both locals and international tourists alike.  (Photo by Lior Mizrahi/Getty Images)
Israelis enjoy a night out in Mahane Yehuda market in Jerusalem, Feb. 27, 2014. — Lior Mizrahi/Getty Images

Jerusalem’s iconic Mahane Yehuda Market has undergone a dramatic change over the past six years. During the day it’s a colorful market with stalls selling vegetables, spices, fish and nuts. At night it turns into a focal point of the area’s entertainment scene. When the sun goes down and the stalls are shuttered, dozens of bars and restaurants open their doors and the owners put out chairs for the hundreds of Jerusalemites and tourists who flock to the place. On Thursday nights (the start of the Israeli weekend) the market area becomes one huge party.

The market straddles the boundary between ultra-Orthodox and secular Jerusalem and symbolizes the struggle over the city’s character. While the ultra-Orthodox are fighting to preserve a spiritual-conservative Jerusalem, Mayor Nir Barkat has worked to turn Jerusalem into a pluralistic, Western-style city

As of the beginning of 2017, more than 400 shops and businesses operate in the Mahane Yehuda Market. There were once no restaurants there, only stalls, but since 2010 some 20% of the shops have turned into bars or restaurants. The new restaurants helped the market recover from the deep economic crises of the previous decade caused by a wave of terror attacks targeting the popular venue. But not everyone seems pleased with the change.

Ultra-Orthodox residents are complaining about this transformation. One of them told Al-Monitor on condition of anonymity that the flourishing bars and restaurants in the market are causing “severe breaches in modesty.” The market is adjacent to ultra-Orthodox neighborhoods, and for their residents the market's night scene is a major problem.

SUBSCRIBER EXCLUSIVE

Continue reading this exclusive analysis

Original reporting and analysis unavailable elsewhere. Subscribe to AL-MONITOR to read this story and access everything we publish