CESME, Turkey — Rustic ropes separate beach chairs, placed in pairs under the shade of straw umbrellas, on the sandy beach of Altin Yunus, one of the oldest resorts in Turkey’s Aegean coastal town of Cesme, 70 kilometers (43 miles) from Izmir. On a recent August weekend, only a third of them are occupied and the hotel’s usual clientele of German, Dutch and Russian tourists is replaced by a handful of local clients, most of whom pointedly keep their distance from each other as they walk on the seafront. But cross to the adjacent public beach and the change is striking: Large groups sit closely on foldable chairs and fraternize. Older bathers, the most vulnerable group in the coronavirus pandemic, gather for a backgammon tournament. The only face masks in sight are those swept to the shore by the waves, half-buried in the sand. Images of golden youths partying on posh beaches are even more alarming.
Local officials, from mayors to police chiefs, make highly publicized inspections to the beaches and other touristic locations on the Aegean coast to drive home the point that the government’s safe vacation measures — which include distancing of 2 meters (6.5 feet), a buffet ban and servers obliged to wear masks — are religiously enforced. Following warnings of flare-ups after the Muslim holiday of Eid al-Adha in early August, the local health authorities have closed down 11 restaurants, beaches, bars and cafes in Cesme for disregarding social distancing and hygiene measures. Last week, Suleyman Soylu, Turkey’s iron-fisted interior minister, replaced the district governor of Cesme, allegedly for failing to ensure that beach clubs and restaurants toe the line.
On Aug. 12, Health Minister Fahrettin Koca said the precautions against the pandemic were not at the “desired level,” warning of a tough second wave in October and November if people let their guard down. But unlike his previous statements, the minister carefully avoided mentioning touristic spots and expressing concern over the lack of masks and social distancing and a general slackening of precautions in coastal areas.
His silence on this issue followed the arrival of a large group of Russians to the Mediterranean city of Antalya, a major touristic hub, as both the Tourism Ministry and local authorities trumpet Turkey as a venue of “safe vacation.” Earlier on Aug. 12, Antalya Gov. Ersin Yazici announced that the number of tourists arriving from Russia had reached 40,000 in the past two days. He hastened to add that all necessary measures against the coronavirus were in place, including quarantine floors in hotels. “I hope the German tourists will come soon and the tourism sector will be more active,” he said.
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