A row of elegant late-18th- and early-19th-century yali (wooden mansions) lines the Bosporus waterfront at Arnavutkoy. More wooden houses dot the slopes behind them. According to Rick Steves’ Turkey travel guide Mert Taner, they were originally summer houses. Arnavutkoy is ideally placed for escaping the heat from the 18th century on, but its story as a multicultural neighborhood began long before that.

Arnavutkoy's history dates back to the third century A.D., and its name — like its residents — has changed over time. The first settlers were Greek; they called the area Hestia for the lime quarries atop the hill on the European side of the Bosporus. Over the next 10 centuries, it became Promotu, then Anaplus and then Mega Revma. Arnavutkoy sits at the point where waters from the Black Sea meet those of the Sea of Marmara, creating a fast running and dangerous tide. Locals call this spot Akinti Burnu (Tidal Point). 

“After the fall of Constantinople [in 1453], Mehmet the Second brought Janissary troops from Albania to live in Arnavutkoy,” Taner told Al-Monitor. In Turkish, "Arnavut" means "Albanian" and "koy" means "village." It’s been known as the village of the Albanians ever since. Despite these Muslim additions, when Turkish explorer Evliya Celebi passed through during the late 17th century, he described it as a non-Muslim settlement with a majority Greek population.

They worshipped at Arnavutkoy Aya Strati Taksiarhi Rum Ortodoks Kilisesi (Taksiarhis Church), dedicated to archangels Michael and Gabriel. The original wooden building predated the conquest of Istanbul, but the current structure is from the mid-19th century. Inside, an iconostasis dense with gold leaf and ancient icons covers one whole wall. Overhead, a dome painted a deep, velvety blue and studded with gold stars represents the heavens. Underfoot, distinguished Arnavutkoy residents lie undisturbed in the crypt.