BAGHDAD — Many of Iraq’s prominent archaeological sites lie far away from cities, in the prairies and deserts, making them prone to neglect. Even famous sites such as the Nuffar ruins, the historic Kish city, Uruk and Ukhaidir Palace have weak security measures to protect them from antiquity thieves, and the places are not well developed for tourists.
But it's hard to understand the neglect of Mustansiriya Madrassa, a historic school building situated in the ancient Abbasid district of Rusafa in the very heart of Baghdad. This site has deteriorated right under the noses of antiquity authorities and the capital’s secretariat.
The madrassa was established by Abbasid Caliph al-Mustansir around 1230. It was a prestigious secular, scientific and cultural center comparable in importance to contemporary universities. The disciplines taught included mathematics, philosophy, astrology, Sharia and classical Arabic.
The building stands on the bank of the Tigris River, which flows behind the building. The carved interlace and writings in Arabic indicating Quranic verses on these walls are now concealed by dust. Its front facade, harboring a magnificent pointed-arch entrance, seems to disappear in a corridor surrounded by a multitude of shops and markets with narrow, winding alleys.
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