Halva is a popular dessert with many claiming it as their own, from the Balkans to India. In Anatolia, the peninsula of land that today constitutes the Asian part of Turkey, halva has a social mission: it is shared with family and friends at joyous events such as weddings, births, circumcision ceremonies and religious celebrations. Traditionally, it is also served during Lent, at funerals and when someone leaves for hajj and is welcomed back home.

It was "semolina halva," also referred to as "funeral halva" or "veterans’ halva," that was the source of intense debate in my family. My mother, born in the Aegean town of Izmir, believed olive or almond oil should be used in the preparation of halva, while my dad, from the eastern town of Kharpout (Elazig), was adamant that semolina should be made with unsalted, high-quality butter.

My mother and aunts would make it whenever there was a family gathering. It was like therapy. We would sit in the kitchen stirring the semolina slowly over low heat. This is one part of the recipe all chefs agree on: Making halva means being patient. For the halva to turn out right, it requires constant stirring, and hence it is usually prepared by more than one person. My mother would let me stir when she would have to step away. We would reminiscence about the family members who were no longer with us. Once the halva is ready, it is shaped with spoons, and served immediately to family, friends and neighbors. Mothers in Anatolia insist their children deliver small plates of halva to the neighbors, who accept the steaming treat while uttering, “May your ancestors’ souls rest in peace.” 

Semolina halva is an ancient dessert with only a few ingredients: semolina flour (farina), sugar and oil. Optional ingredients used to enhance the taste include milk, clotted cream, carrots, dates, orange juice, dried nuts and fruits, cinnamon and even saffron. Preparing and serving halva has a long tradition. The kitchens of the Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, for instance, have separate dessert areas (halvahane) that date back to the days of Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent. The palace used to prepare halva from different regions of the empire, not only for its own residents but also for the public. Drawings from those days show that for any celebration it was a tradition to serve halva.