Before Iran was making headlines with its nuclear program, we often pictured the country as a shimmering mirage arising from the Dasht-e Lut (a Persian desert), where the earth meets the infinite turquoise of the sky. The word "Persia" conjured images of jeweled carpets, exquisite buildings encrusted with mosaics and lush gardens perfumed with jasmine and roses. As one of my high school teachers put it, when she thought of Iran she remembered a photo from the 1930s showing a caravan laden with exotic spices bound for the bazaars of Tehran. Were these images unrealistic? Were they too antiquated to relate to modern Iran?
The ancient Greek historian Herodotus described Persian cuisine as “a model of civilization ... and the epitome of alimentary sophistication.” Herodotus went on to describe the Iranians: “There is no nation which so readily adopts foreign customs as the Persians ... As soon as they hear of luxury, they instantly make it their own.”
I recently traveled to Iran to visit friends and family. I hadn't been back in more than five years and was looking forward to my month-long stay.
The variety and number of foreign food restaurants that have opened in Tehran over the past few years — and have continued to thrive despite the economic crunch — clearly show that Iranians, more than ever, are eager to experience new luxuries, particularly in types of cuisine. While living in Iran, dining out had become part of my everyday life. Our afternoons would typically start with a stop at a coffee shop followed by dinner. For some reason, this time, I found myself amused at the endless options before me. My friends would half-jokingly ask me if I'd been living under a rock all these years.
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