Two things one might notice shortly after landing in Istanbul are traffic congestion and countless billboards on the side of the road. Advertisement displays by companies from various industries is not unusual. Yet, when it comes to apparel, what is peculiar to Istanbul is the broad palette of fashion styles, and hence the market. Thus, a gigantic billboard with a model wearing a headscarf may be placed right next to a billboard promoting bikinis. Turkish society is very diverse, so accommodating different needs in all aspects — fashion included — is a sine qua non for advancing Turkish democracy.
Reviewing reports on Turkish fashion over the last few years reveals a changing pattern of developments in the industry. In 2010, titles such as "Turkey Merges Fashion Industry Into Business" were common; a year later, it was "Spotlight On ... Turkey's Apparel Industry"; then, "On the Way to a Fashion Industry"; and finally in 2013, "Fashion Industry in Turkey Gains International Acclaim." Yet, the most interesting addition to the Turkish fashion industry portrait is a news headline such as "Turkish Fashion Designers Make Muslim Style Chic." This signals a clear evolution, both in Turkish society and its fashion.
First, it should be noted that luxury fashion is very trendy in Turkey. Both international luxury houses and high street brands are well-established, either via department store concessions with "powerful Turkish partners" such as joint venture operators or via monobrand boutiques. Last decade's economic boom paved the way for certain brands to open new stores, while “glamorous multibrand formats” also showed interest in the market. Demand is high, as confirmed by the fact that “French luxury firms present in Turkey have seen their turnover grow by an average of 30% per year over the last five years.” And while some talk about "Turkish unrest hurting luxury goods demand," others — such as Demet Mutlu, the founder of Trendyol.com who said, "However, the bigger picture suggests a much brighter scenario" — remain positive.
So, while Turkey's market place and demographics make it an “extremely attractive destination for international fashion brands,” the future direction of local brands remains in question. (A similar situation in countries such as Brazil resulted in a “fashion identity crisis.") According to Hg2 magazine, Istanbul has also become “home to an emerging group of conceptual designers and minimalist boutiques.” New examples of “up-and-coming designers,” are described as eclectic fusion of the “city’s reputation as an ancient and cosmopolitan marketplace."
AL-MONITOR All-Access gives you unlimited access to all our journalism, the full Daily Briefing, exclusive interviews, premium newsletters, and live events — for less than $2/week.