Now that the headline has caught your attention, let me clarify that the "tea parties" I am advocating for are not more "reactionary conservatives" such as those in the United States, who recently caused their government's shutdown. Just the opposite of such uncompromising outlooks, this region needs more openness and less conspiratorial thinking. The "tea parties" I am rather recommending are simple social gatherings, where invited guests can get to know each other better over some refreshments, in this case much-liked and popular tea. Drinking Turkish tea is a ritual almost unequivocally loved and cherished among friends and family in Turkey and its surroundings. Yet, the value of tea in the region — both symbolically and literally — is underestimated, although it's immense.
It's worth noting that drink preferences of the secular-minded and pious parts of the population have always been among symbolic markers of identity in Turkey. In that light, Turkish Prime Minister Recep Tayyip Erdogan stirred the public in April 2013, by stating that instead of beer or raki (an opaque anise liquor), the national drink is instead ayran, made of yogurt, water and salt. Ayran, whether consumed or not, could become the new line of division in present culture wars. Yet, one drink in Turkey, tea, undoubtedly remains part of the ritual that everyone — regardless of social class, political opinions, ethnicity or religious belief — shares in common.
Even though the tea culture is not very old in Turkey, ever since its introduction in the 19th century, it has become an irreplaceable part of daily life. According to academic Serkan Gunes in his very informative report on “Turkish Tea Culture and its Products,” exploration for agricultural production of tea began around 1894, during the period of Sultan Abdulhamid II. The area around the eastern Black Sea coast, from the Georgian border to the town of Rize, was determined to be very amenable for tea cultivation, due to its climate and fertile soil. Boosting production had to wait until the end of World War I, and several laws to support the processing and marketing of tea were passed between the two world wars. The General Directorate of Tea (Caykur) installed the first tea factory in Rize in 1947. In 1984, during the liberalization of the economy under Turgut Ozal, the state monopoly was removed, and the production of tea was opened to the private sector.
Considering the lower costs of tea over coffee, its easier preparation and arguably great taste, it is not surprising that tea spread very fast. Regional specificities today reflect tea-drinking practices and local taste preferences. Moreover, drinking darker, stronger tea (tavsan kanı) instead of lighter tea (pasa cayi) carries the idea of symbolic entry into adulthood. From color to preparation style, every detail matters. Moreover, there's an old Turkish folk saying, “Conversations without tea are like a night sky without the moon.” No wonder 96% of the population drinks tea every day in Turkey. Whether at home, at work or in teahouses, where many men also gather to play board games or watch TV, tea has become an essential part of Turkey’s culture.
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