Erdogan Condemns Beer, Lauds Yogurt as Turkish National Drink

Turkish Prime Minister Erdogan, speaking at a Global Alcohol Policies Symposium on April 26, said beer was forced upon the masses as a means of “modernization’’ in the early years of the republic. Actually, the first beer factory in Turkey was state-owned and produced what was known as Tekel Birasi, (Monopoly Beer). “But beer is not our drink” he added. “Indeed, our national drink is ayran (yogurt drink).’’ This created uproar in social media, mostly among white Turks (traditional elite, well-educated and Kemalist upper class). Erdogan has mastered the game of touching the nerves of angry white Turks and alcohol presents a delightfully contested zone.

Is there anything to learn from this specific case?

1. Beer not “modern” or “foreign” to the Middle East. Beer has never been a “national” drink in Turkey. That is probably why you have not seen Turkish beer in any well-stocked store around the world. Indeed, initially Erdogan’s statement reminds one of Egyptian Ikhwan’s (Muslim Brotherhood) struggles to limit the consumption of alcohol. Beer was brewed in ancient Egypt. Their most famous brand, Stella, is three decades older than Ikhwan. How will Egyptian Ikhwan take on beer has been a question in the press. Beer, raki (an anise-based, ouzo-like Turkish spirit), wine and other kinds of alcohol have been brewed long before the end of Ottoman era. Yet, these spirits have no place in the neo-Ottoman culture.

2. In the name of Islam or public good? The AK Party claims to be vanguards of an advanced democracy that supports advancement of civil rights and liberties. “More issues can be spoken freely now” is the unchallenged motto of AK Party supporters. One very prominent of such battles on the borders of civil liberties has been about the headscarf. Almost all liberals, conservative Muslims, and other minorities in Turkey have supported the right of women to wear head scarves in public spaces. Yet, hijab wars continue.