Esfahan’s bridges to history threatened by development, neglect

It was once the capital of ancient Persia. Today, it’s a metropolis in the center of Iran, still home to some of the world’s finest architecture. Esfahan’s beautiful mosaic domes, tall minarets, magnificent palaces and mosques have given it the title of "Nesf-e-Jahan," meaning "Half of the World" in Persian. At least that’s what Iranians call it — though foreign visitors usually show no hesitation in expressing their admiration.

One of the highlights of the city that catches the eye of every visitor is its legendary set of bridges. These structures cross the Zayandeh Rood, which runs through Esfahan. Pol-e-Shahrestan — ‘pol’ meaning ‘bridge’ in Persian — is the oldest to cross the Zayandeh Rood. It was initially erected during the Sassanid era (third-seventh century) and later restored during the Buyid and Seljuk periods. Located in the eastern part of the city, in the old district of Jay, this historic structure connected what was once the village of Shahrestan on the north side with the agricultural area on the southern bank. Today, it is the entrance to Esfahan’s fairground, with many pedestrians crossing it every day, oblivious to the history under their feet.

Further west is Pol-e Khaju, built by Safavid ruler Shah Abbas II around 1650, in two tiers. Containing 14 arches and at 133 meters (436 feet) long and 12 meters (39 feet) wide, this has been described as the finest bridge in all of Esfahan. The top level contains an arched passageway on each side for pedestrians, and a main central aisle that was used for horses and carts. At the center, there is a terrace-like structure decorated with tiles and artwork; this was where the Shah would sit and enjoy the river view. The lower level, lined with dozens of room-like spaces, was for local governors. During times of ceremony, they would sit and watch rowing matches. On the west side of the bridge, there are a series of steps that were used for social events and as gathering spots. Pol-e Khaju is still a happening place 350 years after its construction. People from all around Esfahan come here to meet, talk, sing and just be. “I think this is one of the most beautiful bridges in Esfahan. It’s even prettier at night, when the lights are on and you can see their reflection in the river — that is if the river has any water,” Mina, a medical practitioner in Esfahan, told Al-Monitor.

Further upstream is the longest and perhaps the most famous of Esfahan’s bridges, known as Allah Verdi Khan, or Siosepol — meaning “Bridge of 33 Arches.” This unique masterpiece was built during the rule of Safavid Shah Abbas the Great under the supervision of Allah Verdi Khan, one of the Shah’s most famous commanders. It is approximately 300 meters (984 feet) long and 14 meters (46 feet) wide, and was constructed to link Esfahan’s famous Chahar Bagh boulevard with the suburb of New Jolfa, which was inhabited by imported Armenian craftsmen. New Jolfa is still considered an Armenian neighborhood and is home to the four-centuries-old Vank Cathedral, among other landmarks.