Skip to main content

Visiting Nablus Since Last Intifada Shows Renewed City

After 10 years, Shlomi Eldar returns to Nablus and discovers it different from the city he remembers from the second intifada.
A Palestinian boy arranges traditional cookies in a box to be sold in the West Bank city of Nablus, ahead of Eid al-Adha, October 24, 2012. Muslims across the world are preparing to celebrate Eid al-Adha to mark the end of the haj by slaughtering sheep, goats, cows and camels to commemorate Prophet Abraham's willingness to sacrifice his son Ismail on God's command. REUTERS/Abed Omar Qusin (WEST BANK - Tags: RELIGION FOOD) - RTR39IVB
Read in 

Any random tourist who happens to return to Nablus today, after seeing it 10 years ago, would not believe his eyes. “Could this be the capital of the young suicide bombers?” he would undoubtedly ask himself. There’s no question about it. The second largest city in the West Bank has undergone a total metamorphosis. 

The streets of the city are bustling with life. Shoppers from other cities across the West Bank, but mainly from Israel’s Arab towns and villages, pull up in luxurious tour buses. The shops are brimming with merchandise, and the markets are teeming with people, mostly women, lugging their shopping baskets and bags. Dozens of people stand in line outside Nablus’s crowded sweet shops, among the city’s best-known establishments, famous for their baklava and kanafe. These customers eat their fill, and then take home even more in carefully wrapped boxes, so that the sweet taste stays with them. Then there is the new crown jewel, rising above downtown Nablus: a shopping mall with elegant shops selling everything from designer clothing to computer games and cell phones.

Access the Middle East news and analysis you can trust

Join our community of Middle East readers to experience all of Al-Monitor, including 24/7 news, analyses, memos, reports and newsletters.

Subscribe

Only $100 per year.