"Now that we can put soccer aside, let me show you around Jaffa," says Rifaat Turk as we finish the interview that took place at the Babai restaurant overlooking the Mediterranean. In the first part of the interview, Turk recounted his vast experience on the pitch, particularly his struggle against racism by fans. Not only is Turk the first Arab soccer superstar in Israel but he is also a man with deep political and social involvement and has served on the Tel-Aviv Jaffa City Council. In recent years he has participated in sports education programs in Jaffa's tougher neighborhoods, where kids grow up in conditions similar to the ones in which he was raised, though he was able to get out.

We take his car for a drive through his bi-national hometown that is slowly transforming right before his eyes. Its houses are being increasingly populated by Jews who push Arabs out. They build luxury developments that only Jews can afford (such as Andromeda Hill) and that remain out of reach for the Arab population. 

"If you see a big, brand new beautiful house, you know right away that it was bought by affluent Jews. I have no problem with that; on the contrary. Most of my friends are Jewish and I chose them not on the basis of their religion. But look at the trend — when Jews didn't live here, nobody was interested in the Arab residents: no infrastructure, no public parks, no nothing. Now a couple of Jewish families come along, and parks go up in no time. C'mon, does this look right to you? Does it make sense? Is that just?"

Large mansions adorn the gentrifying Jaffa next to small Arab houses. The dichotomy is an eyesore: old versus new; short versus tall; single-story versus multiple-story. It seems that every house is marked by the religion and nationality of the tenant.